Sipping Icewine at Niagara-on-the-Lake

by Jim Halterman

EDGE Media Network Contributor

Tuesday October 5, 2010

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When one thinks of wine country, first thoughts may go to Napa Valley in Northern California or, on a grander scale, Tuscany in Italy. However, there's another enchanting destination for the wine-connoisseur that needs to be added to your must-visit (and taste) list: the region known as Niagara-on-the-Lake in Ontario, Canada.

During a recent visit to check out the annual Shaw Theater Festival in Ontario, it was my first visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake (and to Canada, actually!) so I wasn't even aware of the many vineyards located in the area but as I drove to the lovely Queen's Landing Hotel (more on that later) for my stay, I was struck by the vineyards I unexpectedly drove past.

My schedule was dictated by the Shaw Festival, and so I chose the Inniskillin Winery primarily because I was very curious about all the fuss about its Icewine, which is what they are known internationally for. I met up with Deborah Pratt, the media relations contact for the winery, who took me on an informative tour of the Inniskillin grounds as well as a private tasting of some of their best offerings as well as a lesson in why it's important to pair your wine with the right glass. With such an informative start to my Canadian sojourn, I knew early on that I was in for a treat.

Why the Niagara Region for a Winery?

The Inniskillin Winery began in 1975 by Austrian chemist Karl Kaiser and Italian Canadian agriculture expert Donald J.P. Ziraldo (pictured to the left), and while there was a certain amount of success, the winery didn't truly move to a higher level of fame until 1984 when the first Icewine was created.

Soon, the international wine community took notice of Inniskillin and fame was quickly theirs. However, Kaiser and Ziraldo did not rest on their laurels and to this day, they continue research and testing of the science of wine producing.

But why does wine production thrive in this particular area? The first thing I learned on my tour with Pratt is why the region at Niagara-on-the-Lake is so ripe for growing the grapes that would inevitably be used for the Icewine.

The Niagara Peninsula is what is called a cool climate viticulture region, which is the same for regions in such International areas such as Burgundy, Germany, Oregon, Tasmania and New Zealand. These regions are optimal because they tend to produce lighter, fruitier wines instead of the heavier wines that come out of hotter regions.

Also, when showed the North America map, it's surprising to find that Niagara-on-the-Lake is level with Napa Valley, which a connection between the two regions that I was never aware of. Who knew?!

Frozen Grapes, Ripe for the Pickin’?

The key to making Icewine starts with (no surprise here) the grape. However, while grapes are often harvested in the spring and summer months, these grapes are kept on the vine well into the winter months so the flavors are concentrated and intensified as the water freezes, thaws and dehydrates.

In fact, harvest does not begin until the temperatures dive below minus eight degrees Celsius for a sustained period of time. Imagine your job being to show up for work in the middle of the winter night to grab frozen grapes off the vine!

The process begins when the frozen grapes are immediately pressed in the extreme cold to remove the nectar's luscious flavor. That nectar is then fermented over the following months until it becomes Icewine.

This process happens every winter so the famous Inniskillin Icewine can eventually make its way to your wine glass with its balanced acidity of fruit flavors, ranging from peach to mango to lychee.

Awards! Awards! And More Awards!

While Inniskillin has been gaining recognition and accolades from its Icewine, it did take some time for the international critics to embrace what the Inniskillin Winery was doing.

However, all that changed in1991 when the most prestigious award in the wine world - the Grand Prix d'Honneur - was won for the 1989 Icewine. That win is now regarded as a pivotal event when Inniskillin was suddenly recognized as a major wine producer and its credibility was cemented as one that was admired and acknowledged.

Thereafter, Inniskillin would continue to earn more awards and, in 2004, Inniskillin became the proud sponsor of the Canadian Olympics. There was a special planting of Riesling grapes that will be harvested to coincide with the 2010, the Winter Olympics in Vancouver. Smart planning, huh?

Pour! Pour! Pour!

All this talk of wine making you thirsty? I know I was by the time I heard all the back-story and hard work that goes into making the famed Icewine. But how does it taste?

Pratt sat me down in the Riedel Room, which is a private tasting space where I not only tasted a variety of wines - the Riesling Icewine easily being my favorite since I like my wine sweet and fruity - but where I also learned which Riedel wine glass should be used with each wine.

Previously, I had known that different glasses were used with specific types of wine but Pratt educated me on how important a particular glass can enhance (or, if the wrong glass is used, diminish) the delicious taste of any wine.

As Pratt poured the variety of wines in two different glasses, the taste difference was, in a word, remarkable. The particular place where the wine hits your tongue during tasting influences that taste so much more than I had ever before imagined. I'll never look at wine glasses the same way - and I'll work to make sure that I'm using the right glass with the right wine!

If you're not familiar with Riedel stemware, Austrian Claus Riedel was the first person to design glasses to work alongside the character of wine. Joining forces with Inniskillin co-founders Kaiser and Ziraldo, the Vinum Extreme IceWine glass was created specifically for the Inniskillin Icewine.

And, for those of you who want to do either a group or private tasting, either can be arranged with the winery and, trust me on this, it's well worth the time and the low fee (rates vary depending on what you want included, such as cheese or other food). Even if you know your wines, you may learn something!

The Future of Inniskillin

With Cofounder Donald Ziraldo leaving to lead the research efforts for the Canadian Wine Industry and Karl Kaiser retiring (though he still retained a contract to assist with Icewine making), Bruce Nicholson joined the winery in 2007 and has been steering the Inniskillin winery, including the overseeing of renovations on the Niagara property to include a new entrance and the Piazza which connects the Founders' Hall to the Wine Boutique. The winery regularly holds public and private events and also includes a state-of-the-art demonstration.

Where to Stay in Niagara-on-the-Lake?

The quaint, small-town feel of Niagara-on-the-Lake also is home to many hotels, so it might be overwhelming trying to determine the best place to stay.

Cond� Nast Traveler Magazine named the Vintage Hotels' Queen's Landing the top hotel in Ontario for 2010. Additionally, Queen's Landing also landed a spot on Traveler Magazine's Gold List of the best hotels, resorts and cruises.

(The list is compiled from a Readers' Choice Survey in the magazine so this isn't a ranking by snooty travel experts but by the people who actually have stayed in the hotel.)

The Queen's Landing is the largest property of the Vintage Hotels with 142 guestrooms and 19 meeting rooms so it's perfect for both the leisure and business traveler. The hotel also has been a CAA/AAA four-diamond award recipient for 20 years for accommodations (as well as the last 15 years for dining).

The neighboring Vintage Hotels include Prince of Wales, Pillar and Post and Millcroft Inn & Spa and are all within walking distance of local dining, pubs and excellent shopping (including a great Christmas store that is open year-round).

If you want to stay close to your room and still have a lovely dinner, the Tiara Restaurant at Queen's Landing finds a West Coast twist put upon traditional French cuisine with Chef James Olberg at the helm in the kitchen. With choices such as Lobster Bisque, an Organic Irish Salmon and the more tradition Ribeye steak, there is truly something for everyone on the Tiara dinner menu with great wine pairings and an amazing dessert menu for post-meal decadence.

And, if you're staying at the Queen's Landing on the weekend, check out the Tiara Sunday brunch with carving stations, omelettes to order and an extensive collection of scrumptious desserts.

And, of course, if d�cor is your thing, the Tiara is classic in style and there are also great views of the historic Niagara-on-the-Lake Harbor.

Give Me My Spa Experience!

While it's always fun to tour and taste wines at the Inniskillin, take a Niagara Falls boat cruise or check out the Shaw Festival, there's also something perfect about going away and being pampered and you can do that during your stay at Queen's Landing.

The nearby Vintage Hotel's Prince of Wales hosts the Secret Garden Spa while the Pillar and Post Hotel is home to the 100 Fountain Spa. Both offer everything from aesthetic and body treatments, body wraps, Vinotherapy treatments to the simple mani-pedis for anyone needing to be refreshed during your stay.

Free shuttle service takes you to any of the properties in the area for your spa time.

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You can visit the Inniskillin wineries in either Niagara-on-the-Lake region in Ontario, Canada or in the Okanagan region in British Columbia, Canada. For more information on the wine itself or summer/winter hours for tours, visit www.inniskillin.com .�

To check out the Queen's Landing hotel (or the other fabulous properties of Vintage Hotels in the area), go to www.Vintage-Hotels.com/QueensLanding .

Jim Halterman lives in Los Angeles and also covers the TV/Film/Theater scene for www.FutonCritic.com, AfterElton, Vulture, CBS Watch magazine and, of course, www.jimhalterman.com. He is also a regular Tweeter and has a group site on Facebook.