Smoke Out: JAX B-B-Q Opens in NYC
Complete with six-hour smoked ribs glazed in Memphis style sauce, kicky fritters filled with alligator and baked beans chock full of burnt ends, you may expect to find JAX B-B-Q in the hills of the Carolinas, among the bluegrass twangs of Tennessee, or at least among the throngs of hipsters in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Instead, JAX B-B-Q has planted its roots smack dab in the path of the Javits Center to Times Square subway foot traffic, in the recently surging southern end of Hell's Kitchen.
Opened in January by chef/restaurateur Nick Accardi (Tavola, Bone Lick Park) this 60-seat homage to barbecue and burgers is Accardi's newest venture and second in the barbecue vein. Mentored by Pit Master Mike Mills (Apple City BBQ, 17th Street Bar & Grill), Accardi is passionate about his in-house smoker and personally designed d�cor.
Filling station chic, in all the right ways, JAX feels cozy yet cool, casual yet clever. Anchored but not overtaken by a huge Mobil Oil Pegasus in the rear of the restaurant, JAX's walls are covered with a mixture of gas station kitsch and original wall art reminiscent of tattoo work. High-top tables in the center of the eatery boast vintage-feel soda fountain stools. Flanking the center high-tops, booths have an old-is-new-again vibe with cozy pub leatherbacks and distressed wood tops. The ambiance suits the clientele: fresh but not painfully trendy, comfortable and food-centric.
Of the classic smokehouse carnivorous fare of Memphis spare ribs, Carolina pulled pork and Texas dry-rubbed beef brisket, the brisket stands out with a thick bark, which gives way to tender morsels of beef. Starters play with the Southern theme, including crawfish hush puppies and Bayou alligator fritters.
Baked beans with burnt ends, collards with smoked ham, and brown sugar yams support the meats with classic heft. Unexpectedly, burgers are on full display at JAX as well. With a range from a somewhat classic Pat LaFrieda patty topped with caramelized onions and truffle ketchup to the Greek Tycoon lamb burger adorned with feta and caponata, burgers clearly hold a special place in the heart of JAX B-B-Q.
Perhaps lower Hell's Kitchen (an area that some are dubbing "Hell's Pantry") is not the first place you'd look for classic Southern barbecue and bountiful burgers, but that's exactly what JAX B-B-Q is serving up in heaping and budget-friendly portions.
496 Ninth Avenue, New York City
212-273-1168