City Spotlight: Sao Paulo
If you land in S�o Paulo at Congonhas, the downtown airport, you'll fly over endless horizons up to the moment you're on the ground. The skyline will immediately remind you of New York, but after you land, you'll feel you're in a suburb of Milan. Before long, however, you'll experience a patchwork quilt of Paris, Tokyo, Athens and Istanbul, among other cities.
S�o Paulo is one of the world's megacities. With over 10 million people, Greater S�o Paulo is expected to reach 21 million by 2015. Paulistanos (as the locals are called in Portuguese) can appear rather formal at first, but they'll melt your heart if you show them some consideration and win their confidence. Paulistanos are taught English from an early age, so it's easy to communicate. Just remain sensible and aware: Don't go out dressed like a typical tourist or display your state-of-the-art BlackBerry, cell phone or iPod
The best places to stay are around the four subway lines (mostly the Blue, Red and Green lines) and the CPTM Metropolitan Trains. It's a lot cheaper than cabs and is clean, fast and safe. A subway ticket costs less than $1.50. If you land via Congonhas, the trip to Avenida Paulista will cost about $20 by cab or $50 from Cumbica/Guarulhos Airport, depending on the traffic.
S�o Paulo is an international business center, but it is also all about fun! You can find places to eat and dance practically 24 hours a day, any day, on any budget. The paulistanos are very proud in their business-oriented lives, but revel in their rich nightlife, gastronomy and endless shopping.
Jos� Campos is a proud paulistano, a native of S�o Paulo. He knows all the ins and outs of this international city, which has become one of the premier destinations for gay tourists.
Note:
All currency is in U.S. dollars ($).
WHERE TO STAY
Inexpensive
Try to stay around Avenida Paulista, in the very heart of the city. The Formule 1 (http://www.accorhotels.com.br) are the least expensive, about $55. Up to three people can stay there.
Formule 1 S�o Paulo-Paulista
Rua da Consola��o, 2303, 0
Consola��o
55-11-3123-7755
Formule 1 S�o Paulo-Paraiso
Rua Vergueiro, 1571
55-11-5085-5699
Formule 1 S�o Paulo-Jardins
Av. Nove de Julho, 3597
11-3886-4600
155 Hotel
Rua Martinho Prado,173
Consola��o
11-3150-1555
http://www.155hotel.com.br
Upscale
Unique Hotel
Av. Brigadeiro Luis Antonio, 4700-Jardim Paulista
55-11-3055-4710
http://www.hotelunique.com.br
Sexy, fabulous d�cor, beautiful rooms and, well, unique. Chef Emmanuel Bassoleil presides over its restaurant, Skye, with a fusion cuisine of French, Italian, Japanese and native. The deck around the pool offers one of the most astonishing views of the city; in the evening, it becomes a lounge crowded with young people making the scene.
Hotel Emiliano
Rua Oscar Freire, 384-Jardins
55-11-3068-4399
http://www.emiliano.com.br
This chic, friendly hotel is located on S�o Paulo's Madison Avenue. Designers Humberto and Fernando Campana's lobby and great restaurant are worthy of a visit just for themselves.
Sheraton S�o Paulo WTC
Av. das Na��es Unidas, 12559
55-11-3055-8000
http://www.sheratonsaopaulowtc.com.br
Within the Sheraton WTC, there is the Design Hotel, a boutique section with gorgeous suites, each created by a well-known Brazilian designer. The S�o Paulo Design Center is directly under the hotel, with a train station (Berrini) in front.
WHERE TO EAT
Brazilian restaurants still haven't surrendered to the habit of taking reservations, so people just arrive and stay in line or at the bar waiting for a table. On weekends, get there before 10 p.m. or be ready for a long wait. Eating late is very common
Mesti�o Restaurante e Bar
Rua Fernando Albuquerque, 277
Consola��o
55-11-3256-3165
http://www.mestico.com.br
Contemporary cuisine with "Bahiana" and Thai accents. Amazing similarities in delicious flavors-and mostly gay ambiance but totally cool.
Spot
Al. Ministro Rocha Azevedo, 72
55-11-3284 6131
Just as it says: the spot! In a trendy location amid three skyscrapers and in the very heart of Avenida Paulista, executives and celebrities mingle outside and in the saloon.
L'Open
Alameda Itu, 1466
55-11-3060-9013
This gay Italian restaurant and bar is a short walk from Avenida Paulista. Pizza and pasta, fish and meat come with special events and performances, mostly on Thursdays.
Rascal
http://www.rascal.com.br
This chain of buffet restaurants serves endless salads plus pasta and grilled food-all for $25. And the quality is fantastic.
Consulado Mineiro
Rua C�nego Eug�nio Leite, 504
Pinheiros
55-11-3898-3241
http://www.consuladomineiro.com.br
The cuisine of the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais resembles Cajun food, since it shares the same sources-European immigrants.
Thai Gardens
Avenida Nove de Julho, 5871
55-11-3073-1507
http://www.thaigardensgroup.com
One of the city's most beautiful restaurants is decorated in shades of sand, natural and dark wood with splashes of orange and gold.
WHERE TO DRINK
Caneca de Prata
Avenida Vieira de Carvalho, 55
Rep�blica
55-11-3223-6420
This relaxing but perky bar on a major downtown gay strip caters to mature guys, with fast food and endless drinks. On weekends it's so crowded, people congregate on the sidewalk.
Caf� Vermont
Avenida Vieira de Carvalho, 10
Rep�blica
55-11-3222-5848
You can eat breakfast early (6 a.m. weekdays), but at night, enjoy DJs and live singers.
Exquisito
Rua Bela Cintra, 532-Consola��o
55-11-3151-4530
http://www.exquisito.com.br
The name, Spanish for "exquisite," must refer to the diverse snacks from all over Latin America. Wash it down with the many local, imported and draft beers.
Sonique
Rua Bela Cintra, 461-Consola��o
55-11-2628-8707
http://www.soniquebar.com.br
This beautiful space includes a great dance floor, with a different theme each night and DJs like Cris Pantojo and Fred Stecca. Sundays, promoter Eduardo Hering organizes a Caf� com Vodka Party.
Volt
Rua Haddock Lobo, 40-Consola��o
55-11-2936-4041
barvolt.com.br
Small, cozy and neon lit, with great drinks and charm, it doubles as a neon art gallery.
Ritz
Alameda Franca, 1088-Jardim Paulista
55-11-3088-6808
The Ritz is a classic paulistano gay bar, although everyone comes here for the best hamburgers in town, delicious spiced rice cakes and hot men and women. Try the caipirinhas made with sake.
WHERE TO DANCE
Clubs charge anywhere from $7.50 to $40, depending on the day of the week, the party, venue and guest attraction. Although no single website has info in English, look for the words listas (lists), cadastro (subscribe) and contatos (contacts). There are frequent occasions, like bringing a gift for underprivileged children, to get a substantially discounted admission. A subscription also gets a discount. Don't be afraid to ask the locals about special admission prices.
D-Edge
Alameda Olga, 170-Barra Funda
55-11-3667-8334
http://www.d-edge.com.br
Beautiful people bathed in the best lighting in town with international and local DJs. Friday night is best.
ABC Bail�o
Rua Marques de Itu, 182-Centro
55-11-3361-7964
http://www.abcbailao.com.br
A local institution, mostly for older gents and their admirers dancing cheek to cheek to music from "boleros" to disco classics. Thursday to Saturday features an open buffet.
Sogo
Alameda Franca, 1368-Jardins
55-11-3061-1759
http://www.sogo.com.br
Three floors, three moods: an island bar where the flirting starts; the dance floor; and the Dungeon Cruising Bar. Open Thursday, Friday, Saturday. Check the schedule since there are parties for boys and girls.
Cantho
Largo do Arouche, 32-Rep�blica
55-11-3723-6624
http://www.cantho.com.br
The most democratic club in town, where the DJ mixes Madonna's latest hits with the latest Samba School tune. You'll find guys from 18 to 80. Open Friday to Sunday at midnight. Every few weeks, Cantho hosts the best afterhours dance in town, starting at 7 a.m. and ending when the last customer leaves.
Danger
Rua Rego Freitas 470-Rep�blica
55-11-3211-0371
Expect to find this classic club full of drag queens, go-go boys and everything in between. Salette Campari, the hostess does a great Marilyn Monroe, and the drag show is the house best in town. Open Wednesdays through Sundays at 11 p.m.
Ultra Club International
Rua Marques de Itu, 284-Centro
55-11-3338-2493
http://www.ultraclub.com.br
On Fridays, check out the Camaleon party. Saturdays is for the girls with Super Dyke. Sunday mornings is hardcore afterhours dancing.
Flex
Avenida Marqu�s de S�o Vicente, 1767-Barra Funda
http://www.flexclub.com.br
Yes, this huge club is where you'll hear Brazil's prime export, DJ Ana Paula, along with DJs Rodolfo Bravat, Douglas Penido, Bruno Pacheco and Felipe Acioli. Saturdays only.
The Week
Rua Guaicurus, 324-Lapa
55-11-3868-9944
http://www.theweek.com.br
This gorgeous, immense club offers two dance floors with the hottest men in Brazil. Here's the lay of the land: Close to the stage on Floor 1 are the bodybuilders; in the back, the shy ones. Couples prefer Floor 2. Everyone strolls the outside gardens and pool. A roster of resident DJs brings in men of all types and ages. Saturdays is Babylon, but check for biweekly Sunday afternoon pool parties in the summer. Open until 10am
Jungle Party
http://www.jungleparty.com.br
Maurici Salles and Hugo Henrique organize this bimonthly day party. Each party happens in a different special location. If you're in town, don't miss it!
Gay Pride
http://www.paradasp.org.br
S�o Paulo's Pride-the largest in the world-takes place in June around the Feast of Corpus Christi, always a Thursday; this year, June 3, so the parade is that Sunday, June 6. Be prepared for a marathon of parties beginning on Wednesday. The parade starts at Avenida Paulista, crosses it almost completely and then goes down.
WHERE TO GET OFF
Club 269
Rua Bela Cintra, 269-Consola��o
55-11-3120-4509
http://www.sauna269.com.br
A mega-sauna: steam rooms, bar and club, with a resort d�cor. Plenty of labyrinths, rooms, glory holes, special beds, showers and bathtubs.
Termas for Friends
Rua Morgado de Mateus, 365
Vila Mariana
55-11-5579-1887
http://www.termasforfriends.com.br
Brazil's pioneer gay sauna where "friends" go beyond a few drinks.
Thermas 484
Rua Jaguaribe, 484-Santa Cecilia
55-11-3223-9191
The newest sauna in town. Everything is brand new and clean. There is a big bar, cabins, rooms with private bathrooms and a pool.
UPGrade
Rua Santa Isabel, 198 - Rep�blica
55-11-3337-2028
http://www.bananaloca.com.br
A variety of different parties at this sex club for bears, masquerades, a night in Hell (complete with little devils), etc. Open 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily except Saturday, 5 a.m.
RG31
Rua Rio Grande, 31-Vila Mariana
55-11-5084-4534
http://www.rgbar.com.br
Not a single piece of clothing is allowed inside so you get straight to the point. There are Mask, Neon, Executive, and Long Dick theme evenings. Open 6 p.m. until midnight Sunday to Thursday; Fridays and Saturdays to 4 a.m.; Saturdays it opens at 8 p.m.
Gladiators
Rua Dr. Penaforte Mendes, 259
Consola��o
55-11-3258-9340
http://www.gladiatorsclub.com.br
A hard-core spot beside the Frei Caneca shopping center downtown. A cozy bar at the entrance leads to a bar area and backyard. No private spaces.
Termas Lagoa
Rua Borges Lagoa, 287
Vila Mariana
55-11-5573-9689
"Love for Sale" is more than a Cole Porter song. There are several pools; steam; dark, private rooms; and "bad boys" in every shade, texture and kink. Open Sundays to Thursdays, 2 p.m. to midnight, weekends open a bit later.
WHERE TO SHOP
After Carnival the prices really drop, when all 50 shopping centers have what they call "Red Pencil Sales." August and September are also good months for shopping since winter is ending and summer wear sprouts up in store windows. There is a cluster of great stores in a rectangle bordered by Avenida Paulista, Rua Augusta, Rua Estados Unidos and Rua da Consola��o. Explore Rua Oscar Freire and environs for local labels and Madison Avenue class. Downtown, Avenida Vieira de Carvalho and Largo do Arouche has great clothes at low prices.
Rua Oscar Freire - Jardins
Known as the "Rodeo Drive" of Sao Paulo, this street is a place to see and be seen. Beautiful people fill up the area all day in their designer sunglasses and perfect tan shopping and eating in its fancy restaurants. Oscar Freire is a upscale strip that has all the international designer stores as well the high end Brazilian Fashion such as Zoomp, Forum,Iodice and the Famous swimsuit store Rosa Cha.
Shopping Frei Caneca
Rua Frei Caneca, 569-Consola��o
55-11-3472-2000
http://www.freicanecashopping.com
Good shops and excellent places to eat, theaters and a multiplex at this gayish shopping center. A great place also to meet and flirt with the locals.
Shopping Iguatemi
Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2232-Jardim Paulistano
55-11-3816-6116
http://www.iguatemisaopaulo.com.br
Imagine Madison Avenue compressed into two huge floors. Labels like Salvatore Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, Armani, Ricardo Almeida, Kiehl's, Lacoste, Zara and Brazilian fashion darling Osklen, plus chocolates to sandals, fabulous restaurants, coffee shops and patisseries.
Shopping Cidade Jardim
Avenida Magalh�es de Castro, 12.000-Cidade Jardim
55-11-3552-1000
http://www.shoppingcidadejardimjhsf.com.br
Certainly the most expensive shopping mall in S�o Paulo, with all of the aforementioned labels plus others like Daslu, Ellus, Alfaiataria Paramount, and Reinaldo Louren�o. Even the movies will set you back $30, but your seat is like flying First Class on a Concorde, complete with waiter service.
Villa Daslu
Avenida Chedid Jafet , 131
Vila Olimpia
55-11-3841-4000
http://www.daslu.com.br
This department store is a "must": a Florentine Villa with collections by Prada, Calvin Klein, Gucci, Celine, Dolce & Gabbana and endless other top designers-plus the Brazilian branch of Buddha Bar.
2 Meninos
Alameda Lorena , 2122-Jardins
55-11-3062-8943
Claudio Rahal edits pieces by young Brazilian designers .
Adeh Oliveira
Rua do Arouche, 200, Loja 14, Arouche/Rep�blica
55-11-3361-4272
http://www.adeholiveira.com.br
A designer who specializes in casual: bathing suits, underwear, tank tops, T-shirts, etc.
Rog�rio Figueiredo
Rua Normandia 22/26-Moema
55-11-3926-7621
Alameda Lorena ,1835-Jardins
55-11-3081-3372
Figueiredo's men's collection is chic and at the same time in a subtle way very daring. It is a must to have one of his pieces in your closet.
THINGS TO DO
Sala S�o Paulo
Rua Mau�, 51-Luz
55-11-3351-8000
http://www.salasaopaulo.art.br
S�o Paulo's answer to Carnegie Hall.
MASP-Museu de Arte de S�o Paulo
Avenida Paulista, 1578-Paulista
55-11-3251-5644
http://www.masp.art.br
S�o Paulo's principal art museum, with one of the world's best Impressionist collections.
Museu de Arte Sacra
Avenida Tiradentes, 676-Luz
55-11-3326-1373
http://www.museuartesacra.org.br
The Sacred Arts Museum displays architecture and fine arts from the nation's beginnings to today. The Baroque collection is superb.
Parque Ibirapuera
Sunbathe, work out or meet people in this huge park, which includes an auditorium, planetarium, museums, lakes and sports courts. The park is surrounded by some of the best monuments in S�o Paulo, such as Monumento �s Bandeiras and the Soldier's Obelisk. Watch the hotties jogging and chatting. Weekends and holidays head to the Porquinho, where a bronze sculpture of a man catching a little pig is quite close to the Avenida Quarto Centen�rio gate. Here's where the boys hang.