City Spotlight :: Madrid
0Ask anyone from Madrid living in the U.S. why he left such a beautiful, progressive and cool country, and you'll most likely be met with the same answer: "They party too much over there. Nothing ever gets done!"
Sad, but true. Siesta officially translates into naptime, but unofficially it means "the only sleep you'll ever get." While that might not bode too well for ambitious career types, it does make Madrid one of the best destinations the world over for anyone looking for the ultimate party scene.
Over 2 million strong, Madrid Pride (or Madrid Orgullo, as they call it) is Madrid's most intense party, as well as one of the world's largest and, we'd argue, best looking. Madrid Pride was voted Best Gay Pride in 2009 by the readers of Logo Online. This year, the events will take place from July 1 to July 4 and because this is a Spanish event, each and every night includes hours upon hours of open-air revelry in Chueca, the local gayborhood, capped off every morning with parties.
Every evening from Thursday to Sunday the four distinct squares of Chueca, connected by a maze of small streets, host what may be the world's largest (albeit most intimate) street party. All businesses in the area, gay or straight, drop what they're doing and slap up an outdoor bar. Sexy men from all corners of the earth wander around while the sounds of Spanish entertainment fill the air. Sure, you may be too busy cruising to care about what's happening on stage, but not to be missed is the major production that is Mr. Gay Spain - it's like tapas for the eyes.
The squares start to clear out around midnight, when the boys head indoors to neighborhood bars like Liquid, Why Not, Boite, Strong and Studio 54-all within walking distance, making for some muy facil bar hopping. The bar scene is killer until about 4 a.m., when the night is just getting started: That's when the dance clubs begin to get crowded.
Not to be missed is the week's anchor party, Infinita, aptly named because you could wander this event all night long and still not see it all. Taking up the entirety of the Telefonica Arena in the outskirts of the city, Infinita is best known for its excellent staging and visual production. Dancing to world-class DJs is a virtual paella of attractive international partygoers.
Book a cab (or a ride) in advance. It's about 20 minutes from Chueca. Take the underground back to your hotel. It's nearly impossible to find a cab on the busy streets of Chueca at night and even more futile amongst the hordes of partygoers once Infinita lets out.
The full 2010 Madrid roster will be available in May. Check out
http://www.infinitagayweek.com and http://www.madridgaypride.com for more information.
WHERE TO STAY
Even though rest will be the last thing on your agenda, you'll still want to make sure you've got a hotel that fits your lifestyle. A party boy's best bet will be the Oscar Hotel. Part of the hip Room Mate Hotel chain, it's located on the main square of Chueca and will be filled with other guys visiting town. The ME Madrid hotel, a few blocks away from the party is a great upscale alternative for anyone who really wants a break from the circuit. Budget partiers should look into Hostal Dolce Vita, a gay-friendly, no-frills hotel right in Chueca.
AC Palacio Del Retiro
Calle Alfonso XII, 14
34 91 523 7460
http://www.ac-hotels.com
Converted from a turn-of-the-century mansion, this gorgeous hotel's luxurious and romantic old world atmosphere only continues as you spill out into the street. Rooms from $340 include a complementary mini-bar.
Hostal Dolce Vita
Calle de San Bartolome, 4
34 91 522 4018
http://www.hospedajedolcevita.com
In the heart of Chueca, this low-priced gem has a knowledgeable and friendly staff as well as well-designed rooms. If you don't share well, make sure to ask for a room with a private bathroom. Rooms from $40.
ME Madrid
Plaza de Santa Ana, 14
34 90 214 4440
http://www.memadrid.com
In Plaza de Santa Ana, a few blocks outside the main Chueca festivities, the ME's rooms are sinfully comfortable and totally hip (there's a bar in each room). The hotel is also home of the Penthouse, a rooftop bar that overlooks the entire skyline and plays host to a number of parties. All of that plus a gym, spa, and their knowledgeable and affable staff. Rooms from $190.
Oscar Hotel
Plaza Vasquez de Melia, 12
Madrid
34 91 701 1173
http://www.room-matehotels.com
Located in the Plaza V�zquez de Mella in the heart of Chueca, this is the perfect hotel for those who like to stay right in the middle of the action. Sleek and comfortably sized rooms in a modern design come with free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TV. Try to snag a room with a balcony overlooking the square - perfect for long distance cruising. Rooms from $180.
Urban Hotel
Carrera de San Jeronimo, 34
34 91 787 7770
http://www.derbyhotels.com
A luxury 5-star hotel equipped with a swimming pool, gym and solarium, its comfort and accommodations are second to none. A quick walk to the Prado, it also boasts its own collection of Ancient European, Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Turkish, Roman, Pacific Islander and African art. Rooms from $280.
WHERE TO EAT
Corazon Loco
Calle del Almendro, 22
34 91 366 5783
http://www.corazonloco.com
Set amidst the romantic and windy roads of La Latina, and owned by the Bardem Brothers (yes, Javier's familia), this smoky tapas joint is packed with a Madrile�o gay-straight mixed crowd - all happily drinking ice cold �1 Cervezas and a variety of surprisingly affordable local delights, such as albondigas (meatballs), croquetas (croquettes filled with ham and cheese), and chistorra (spicy sausage). Sunday night is muy popular. It can be a tight fit; all the better for meeting the locals.
Restaurant Gift
Plaza V�zquez de Mella, 12
34 91 701 1060
Overlooking the Plaza V�zquez de Mella in the heart of Chueca and located inside the Oscar Hotel, the Gift is an ideal place to start your evening. The swank d�cor, cute gay crowd, and gourmet plates may transform an evening gathering into an all-night affair.
Restaurant Ramses
Plaza de la Independencia, 4
34 91 435 1666
http://www.ramseslife.com
Philippe Starck-designed and manned by Chef Miguel Angel Jimenez, this is upscale, luxe Madrid dining at its finest. The tertulia-like ambience of Spanish movers and shakers set amongst Starck's modernized baroque oozes sophistication, just as the food effuses flavor. The restaurant stays open till 3 a.m. (the kitchen closes at 11:30 p.m.).
Restaurante El Jardin
Calle de la Reina, 39
34 91 522 0513
This gay-owned and -run establishment in the heart of Chueca is the perfect stop for a nasty hangover that needs some nourishment. Enjoy its coffee shop-like atmosphere and affordable prices and excellent local delights. Get the Tortilla de Patata, a play on the traditional Spanish omelet - pure comfort food.
VIPS
Locations all over Madrid
http://www.grupovips.com
Far from your traditional Spanish place to eat, VIPS is still profoundly Spanish. Cafeteria/restaurant, bookstore, gift shop, music store and bar, VIPS is the perfect way to grab a quick bite in a city that doesn't buy into "fast food." Pick up some souvenirs for friends while there.
Antik Caf�
Calle de Hortaleza, 4
34 91 523 2780
Because sometimes you don't want a loud, raucous bar, there's this coffee shop that serves booze. Great for a low-key start to the night, or just a chill way to pass the dark hours schmoozing with friends.
El Museo Chicote
Calle Grand Via, 12
34 91 532 6737
http://www.museo-chicote.com
A favorite haunt of director Pedro Alm�dovar, this swank club draws fashion and film industry folks - from actors to designers to fabulous trannies. The truly mixed crowd puffs on ubiquitous cigarettes and downs cocktails as DJs play anything-goes sets. Don't miss the killer mojitos.
El Perro
Calle de Puebla, 15
http://www.myspace.com/elperroclub
This hard-to-miss underground club isn't particularly gay, but the festive atmosphere is still fun. DJs mix soul, funk and house as everyone - staff and patrons - seriously get down.
WHERE TO DRINK?
Liquid
Calle de Barbieri, 7
34 91 532 7428
http://www.liquid.es
One of the most popular gay bars in Chueca features thumping dance music, video screens and cute boys. In the States, this would be your final clubbing destination; here, it's the pre-party and the perfect place to make friends for the rest of your evening - or entire vacation.
Ohm
Plaza del Callao, 4
34 91 541 3500
http://www.tripfamily.es
A huge dance floor with a body-piercing sound system make this a favorite for electronica fans, and draws a truly mixed crowd of revelers every night. Check the website for visiting celeb DJs.
Space
Estacion de Chamartin
34 91 733 3505
http://www.spaceofsound.com
This throbbing mega-club (a/k/a Space of Sound) draws world-famous mainstream (and gay) DJs like Paul Oakenfold, Tiesto, Felix da Housecat, and Danny Tenaglia.
Strong Center
Calle de Trujillos, 7
34 91 531 4827
http://www.strong-center.com
A dazzling mix of Hi-NRG disco, leather-bear bar and backroom, this sleazy (in a good way) gay bar provides one-stop-shopping: dancing, drinking and ...
Studio 54
Calle de Barbieri, 7
34 61 512 6807
http://www.studio54madrid.com
Gay dance music fills this bi-level bar-club that packs in youngsters, drag queens, trannies and biological females.
Why Not?
Calle de San Bartolome, 7
34 91 523 0581
A small but undeniably fun, tunnel-like gay bar with a cute crowd from their 20s to 40s drinking like mad and getting down to American and Spanish pop songs. This is a must for any Chueca barhopping spree.
Bears Bar
Calle de Pelayo, 4
http://www.bearsbar.net
Located in the heart of Chueca, this locale caters to the furry among us and those who love them.
LL
Calle de Pelayo, 11
34 91 523 3121
http://www.interocio.es/LL
Open till 6 a.m., this Chueca bar hosts a variety of drag queens upstairs and a mix of bears and their admirers downstairs.
SHOPPING
Deffort
Calle de Loreto y Chicote, 10
34 91 522 5060
http://www.deffort.com
It's called a "Hard Men Outfit Store," and as such it's filled with a "strong" collection of butch men's clothing like Everlast, Merc, New Balance, Schott and Franklin & Marshall. It's a little contrived, but they've got the look down pat.
Diez+Diez
Calle Jose de Cadalso, 68
34 91 706 9695
http://www.diezmasdiez.com
Typical of the young, emerging local fashion scene. But local design faves Diez+Diez's creations are anything but hackneyed. Think The Matrix meets Heatherette, with a dash of rave culture. It's not uncommon to see the designers in their meat-shop-turned-boutique helping club kids or trannies try on some rainbow pleather pants.
Gallery
Calle de Jorge Juan, 38
34 91 576 7931
http://www.gallerymadrid.com
Stocked with a full bar and labels ranging from Thom Browne and John Varvatos to Balenciaga and Comme des Garcons, Gallery is a wonderland for men's fashion fanatics. More than just fancy labels, the store is also stocked with limited-edition collectables like Jerome Coste motorcycle helmets and chic gifting options like Varvatos tie pins.
Fuencarral Mercado
Calle de Fuencarral, 35
34 91 521 4152
http://www.mdf.es
The anchor of the hip Fuencarral shopping area, this is a great bet for an outfit that won't harm your wallet.
SPECIAL EVENTS
Gay Pride
June 27 - July 5
orgullo.cogam.es
http://www.infinitagayweek.com
A four-party pass for �100 is a real bargain.