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EuroPride 08 :: Day One

by Jason Salzenstein

EDGE Media Network Contributor

Thursday July 31, 2008

It's been quite a day of travel, but although I'd love nothing more that to just crawl into bed for a few hours, I'm going to push through, fight my jet lag, and have a fabulous day in Stockholm for EuroPride 2008. Today's schedule is a bit lighter- and more relaxed- than later this week, but that doesn't mean there isn't any excitement- check out what's going on in my life in Stockholm!

Fabulous spas :: A new arrival ritual

After a fabulous flight over on SAS, my trip to Stockholm couldn't have started better; I just got out of the most incredible massage at the Selma Legerlof Spa at the Clarion Hotel Sign. Being that I travel all the time, I don't know why I hadn't figured this out before, but getting a great massage upon arrival following a long overnight flight is extremely beneficial, and left me feeling like a million bucks. (OK, maybe more like $650,000, but you get the point.)

Initially I was worried that I'd fall right to sleep, not want to wake back up, and be cranky all day. Instead, I left the spa feeling completely rejuvenated and full of energy, yet relaxed and pain-free at the same time. If you're on your way here now (and a few readers have already emailed me to tell me that they are), call the spa and set up an appointment with Anna- she's an angel sent from heaven with the sole purpose of making people feel better!

What I liked about Anna's massage was that it was deep without being painful, and she actually listened to my concerns (both those that I told her before the massage began, and the ones that my muscles told her hands as she was working), and didn't waste time with silly little superficial strokes that always make me think "OK, you can move on to something that's actually going to benefit me..."

Like all good European massage therapists, she also didn't shy away from two of the biggest pairs of muscles in the body- the glutes and thighs. Thanks to pervy masseurs and giant lawsuits in the states, unless you've got a therapist you've known for a decade, you can pretty much forget about getting rid of muscle pain and stiffness anywhere from about an inch above the knee to your belly button; they won't go there. In Europe, they understand that massage therapy is just that- therapy, and they also don't have hang-ups over the human body that Americans have. Anna knew I had spent the last 12-hours on a plane, and as such, she went in and fixed the stiffness in my butt and thighs, so that when I left I was walking taller and completely pain free. (That being said, of course everyone's comfort level is different, and all good massage therapists- including Europeans- will respect your comfort level regarding personal 'no-go-zones,' the level to which you want to disrobe, etc.)

And while I'm on the subject of annoying Americans, let me just get something off my chest: I hate American tourists. Example: I'm waiting for my luggage in baggage claim, standing about five feet from the conveyer belt like all of the Swedish natives around me. Over walk three or four loud overweight American travelers (which, btw, if I didn't travel myself and know a few people like me who do as well, I'd say was an oxy moron) who not only shoved in front of me, pushing me out of the way, but then proceeded to knock every person and bag in their general vicinity at least half a dozen times, apparently oblivious to the GIANT YELLOW LINE meant to protect people and make it easier to grab your bag when it comes by. Making this especially frustrating is the fact that painted within this giant line, in SIX-INCH LETTERS, is the word "STOP!"... in ENGLISH!

And we wonder why everyone hates us...

But back to the loving place... and the beautiful rooftop spa at the Clarion Sign. Although it's not large by any means it's designed well, the d?cor is beautiful, the fitness center neat and more than adequate, and the outdoor Jacuzzi- well, let's just say that's perfection. It's got a view to die for, a large deck on which to relax, and on the other side of the building its sister terrace offers a row of bubble chairs (the original Aero Aarnio designs, of course) from which to admire the view- and the Champagne bar! Needless to say, I'll be returning here as soon as I can...

The Grand truly is just that (and more!)

Feeling recharged, rejuvenated, revitalized and really happy, I headed over to "my palace" (that's what I'm calling it) to check in. If you're reading this, hopefully you also read my feature on Stockholm from a couple months back (if not, click here), and remember how I immediately fell in love with the Grand Hotel before I even walked into the magnificent lobby. (There's a chance that this could have something to do with the incredibly beautiful doormen, but I would never admit to being that shallow...) Upon my return today, those initial feelings quickly came back, even stronger than before. (I swear it has nothing to do with the sexy staff...)

Unfortunately I didn't have a lot of time to spend in the hotel before heading out, but I did manage to unpack (plenty of closet space), scan for emergency emails (free WiFi), check the weather channel so that I'd know what to wear (flat screen TV), and gaze out the window to relax for a few minutes, looking out at the incredible view of the water, sailboats, and Royal Palace just across the inlet. (I'd say a stone's throw but I don't want to get arrested.)

Before departing for Pridepark however, I did manage to pop into the spacious Cadier Bar just off the lobby and grab a bite to eat while continuing to daydream about the sailboats, yachts, and view of the palace just outside the windows. (If you must know, I had a delectable Veggie Club Sandwich with perfectly cooked French fries- accompanied by a chipotle dipping sauce- and some delicious slaw.)

The festivities begin...

From the Grand I headed over to Pridepark where I met and had dinner with representatives from Stockholm Pride. After getting a brief tour of the park I did a bit of strolling and was impressed with the layout, the number of LGBT organizations present, the representation of restaurants and other food services, shops, and sponsors, and especially the number of events being held this week. The venue hosts four stages, featuring everything from poetry and spoken word, to country and folk music, to some of the biggest gay dance hit stars from Pride events worldwide. Tonight we got to see Nikki French, among others...

Much larger than past years, this year's Pridepark is also host to an art gallery, large children's area, and (something that tops my list) Champagne bar, featuring none other than one of my favorite bubblies, Philipponnat. (Whose winery and cellars I just so happened to have visited less than a year ago!) Of course I had to have a glass- strictly for the purpose of research- to see if it was as good in Sweden as it was in Champagne, and at home. Of course it was, and as an added bonus the man pouring was tall, blonde, and beautiful- our first real Viking!

We had a quick dinner of fabulous salads and kebabs from Koloni, then stopped by the Berns hotel for an after dinner drink before heading to bed. For EuroPride, Berns Goes Gay, with special events the whole week, including tomorrow night's Swedish Legend party (tickets: www.ticnet.se) and the official closing party on Saturday, Boy Bar XL- This is Disco (www.BoyBar.se), featuring Martha Wash and Afro-Dite!

It's not been a late night, but after a day of traveling and a big time change, I decided it'd be better to get some beauty sleep and save my energy for tomorrow, and the big parties later this week!

Check back daily for more EuroPride updates, and don't forget to check out the Photo Albums for exclusive pictures from EuroPride 2008, from fabulous photographer Andre Landeros Michel

EuroPride and Stockholm Resources

  • The official website for the city of Stockholm has tons of info, including a calendar, restaurant, hotel, museum and shopping guides, a gay section, and a link to the Stockholm Card, a fabulous deal that not only gives you access to more than 75 museums and attractions, but also free travel by public transport, sightseeing by boat, and other extras. You can get it for 24-, 48-, or 72- hours, it comes with a pocket guide to the city, and if you plan on seeing a lot, it's a great deal.

  • www.qx.se has a downloadable QX GAYMAP that shows all of Stockholm's gay and gay-friendly bars, clubs and restaurants; you can also pick up a physical copy at most gay bookstores, clubs, etc.

  • For info on EuroPride 08 go to www.StockholmPride.org

    Photo of crowd with flags and rainbow boas taken by Amy. Photo of large flag by Mattias Olsson

    For photos of EuroPride, go to the EDGE Photo Albums

    Twitter :: JasonSalz Jason Salzenstein is a writer and editor; design, image, and marketing consultant; and professional shopper. His work has appeared in numerous national and international publications and he has clients around the world. For more information :: www.JasonSalzenstein.com