Hob Knob-ing around Martha’s Vineyard

Martha’s Vineyard :: what (and where) is it?

Perhaps I'm a bit blonde, but before I went to The Hamptons this summer, I couldn't have told you where in God's name "they" were (and yes, I did watch Sex & the City!). Likewise with Martha's Vineyard. Perhaps I just never paid attention because I didn't think I'd be going there, but when I found out that "the island" (as islanders and New Englanders call it; Bostonians say "Mahthah's Vineyehd") was less than three hours from Boston (part of that on a ferry), I was surprised- and felt stupid for not yet having made the trip.

Martha's Vineyard is the largest island just off the southern coast of Massachusetts, directly south of "the armpit" of the land that makes up the Cape. You can get to the island by ferry or plane; the former being the most popular, as there are regular departures to and from the island many times each day.

The Vineyard is famous partly because of the many high-profile people who own houses on the island, or whose families have been 'summering' there for generations. (Yes, 'summering' is a verb in New England.) Among the list of who's who of course are the Kennedys; remember that little bridge incident involving Edward and a young blonde? That was here... Unlike The Hamptons however, there's more to summers here than the social scene- Martha's Vineyard is much more relaxed and down to earth.

The high season runs from spring through summer, and many inns, restaurants, and shops are only open seasonally. Don't let that fool you however- early spring and late fall are excellent times to visit the Vineyard. It's then that you'll find fewer people, but most of the shops and restaurants are still open- and as long as you know what to expect, even winter on the island can be beautiful. As a writer, I think it may be my favorite time to visit.

Eco-Chic :: The Hob Knob

A rich History

Wanting to get away from the city for a few days, I ventured to the island with the hopes of "detaching" a bit from my normal routine and relaxing in a quieter, more peaceful place where I could reconnect with myself and write. The challenge for me was to find a place that offered modern conveniences and sophistication, while still holding on to its history, and a "Vineyard feel."

I found just that in The Hob Knob.

A 19th century Gothic Revival home, the Hob Knob recently went through a complete transformation from a classic New England inn to a fabulous eco-chic boutique hotel. Don't worry- the designers retained the building's architectural style and classic New England charm, but gave it a level of sophistication that makes it feel like a fabulous European B&B, combining the charm of the 'old' with the elegance and style of the 'new.' If the Hob Knob were in France, I'm sure it would be part of the Relais & Chateau collection; it's that good.

The Hob Knob is named after the grandmother of proprietor Margaret "Maggie" H. White, an extremely talented woman and major presence on the island. The hotel has a rich history, and has welcomed guests for decades- some quite well known, including John F. Kennedy in 1947.

Eco-Chic (emphasis on chic!)

Staying at the Hob Knob, I realized how gay I actually am. As I toured the hotel, every time I went from one room to another I found myself saying, "Oh my God- it's so cute!" The appeal of the hotel, however, is much more than superficial; the Hob Knob offers style and substance.

As part of the inn's transformation- and in keeping with the Vineyard's heritage of sustainability- Maggie wanted to "go green." As a result, the Hob Knob is now a model for other inns and B&Bs on the island- and around the country. As the only modern luxury boutique hotel on the island, however, it's truly in a class of its own.

The Hob Knob is eco-friendly from top to bottom. Carpeting in the hotel is LEED certified, paint is low-VOC, cleaning products are eco-friendly, and green practices can be seen throughout the hotel. Of course they've implemented the now standard water-saving linen reuse program, but that's just the beginning. The hotel has in-room recycling, all light bulbs are compact fluorescent, and rooms feature eco-friendly glass water bottles and (fabulous!) Aveda products in the bathrooms.

In the kitchen, the culinary staff uses local, organic foods and they compost food waste.

Accommodations

Although it may sound like a clich?, the Hob Knob is truly the perfect combination of old world charm, boutique chic, and modern conveniences. Although it's clearly a New England inn and very much retains its island estate style, the hotel has a definite European feel (and coming from me- an uber Europhile- that's saying a lot). And while the building is charming, warm, and offers plenty of period and period-inspired antiques and decorative touches, it never, ever crosses the line into 'quaint' or 'cute' territory; this is definitely not your grandmother's "old place on the Island."

Thanks to the brilliant work of both the original design team (Joseph Burton- Trip- Ayers III and Paul Dobrea, of Cleveland, OH) and Lory Johansson (of Ergo Design Works), the Hob Knob manages to hold on to its past while completely embracing the present- i.e. luxurious little touches that EDGE readers wouldn't want to do without.

Example: Although the furniture may be antique, the TVs (flat-screens), clock radios (iPod compatible), and internet access (high speed WiFi) are all modern, as are the bathrooms (simple and very clean), amenities (Aveda), and "extras" (on-site spa, fitness room, and sauna).

The main house features 12 'standard' rooms (that are truthfully anything but) on the first and second floors, four deluxe rooms (offering a bit more space, no common walls, a kitchenette and/or four-poster bed, etc.), and one suite, which has its own private stairway. All have private baths with tubs and showers, European-style fine linens, and all the amenities you'd expect from a boutique hotel.

If you're coming to the island with friends or family, consider renting one of the two Hob Knob guesthouses across the street. Both are gorgeous, feature four or five bedrooms, and are decorated with as much attention to detail as the main hotel. The larger of the two is the perfect house for entertaining- it's got a gourmet kitchen, billiards room, and a large backyard with a pool and gourmet outdoor grill. The houses rent by the week, and book early, so plan your summer now- it's the next best thing to having your own place on Martha's Vineyard!

Amenities

Aside from the fabulous touches listed above (Did I mention the Aveda bath products? Loves it!), the Hob Knob has some enchanting "extras" that I found to be icing on the cake. To start with (literally), your stay includes their daily, made-to-order, "full-farm" breakfast, which is local, organic, and delicious. (Don't miss the fresh scones- they're incredible.) Each afternoon you're invited to take tea and treats in one of the dining rooms, the living room, or beautiful veranda, weather permitting. I'm normally not one for coconut, but the dark-chocolate dipped macaroons were DIVINE; if there hadn't been other people around me I would have either eaten the entire tray or stuffed them all into my pockets... A bit of port is available for the taking in several strategic spots throughout the hotel as well. During the warmer months the staff also hosts Sunset Socials on the porch!

Although you'll likely get plenty of exercise walking around town, playing in the surf (seasonally, of course), or riding a bicycle around the island (the hotel rents classic beach cruisers, made by hand in Burlington, Vermont), the Hob Knob has a small but perfectly equipped fitness room, as well as a private sauna and steam shower that are a wonderful way to start- or end- the day.

Speaking of which, the Hob Knob's small spa is intimate and delightful- and offers a well-edited menu of services that I highly recommend. I had a relaxing afternoon massage with Lisa and could have easily slipped into slumber if it weren't for a previous commitment I felt obligated to keep.

Tying the knot on the island

Although marriage isn't in my immediate plans (I'm still waiting for the Cartier engagement watch), I've been with my other half for a while- let's say 15 gay years. When the time does come to plan our nuptials, the Hob Knob will definitely be on our short list of possible locations. With 17 rooms in the main hotel and two houses across the street (one with five bedrooms, the other with four), the accommodations- and location- are perfect for nearly any size wedding.

The Hob Knob has hosted ceremonies in the living room, on the veranda, in the backyard, and in a nearby church, and their staff can help with as much or as little as you like. From rehearsal dinners thorough the honeymoon suite, they'll arrange catering, flowers, you name it. One thing to note: you'll want to book in advance, because it's a popular destination in spring and summer.

Last but certainly not least :: The service

Aside from what's on offer at the inn, the Hob Knob staff is both extremely knowledgeable about the island, and exceedingly helpful; they're available for requests both small and large. Whether you're looking for suggestions on where to eat, drink, shop, or bicycle, want to know where the best beaches can be found, or you'd like to arrange for a gourmet picnic basket or private boat charter, they're there to help. For a truly island experience, you can rent the Hob Knob 27' Boston Whaler- complete with captain- for fishing charters and sunset cruises.

Because I was so impressed, I'll reiterate: the service at the Hob Knob is truly second to none. I travel a lot, and all too often I find the people working at many smaller B&Bs, inns, and boutique hotels to fit in one of two categories. Either they're constantly (annoyingly) in-your-face, wanting to tell you everything they can think of about the history of the building, the town, the area, etc. (as well as give you umpteen million suggestions on places to go that you'd clearly never step foot in), or they're so cold and snotty that you feel like you can't even ask for a pencil without being made to feel like you've both disturbed them from solving the energy crisis, and been blessed by the Dali Lama.

The staff at the Hob Knob is neither; in short, they represent perfection.

THE VINEYARD

Exploring the island

Martha's Vineyard has some of the most magical beaches I've ever seen. Obviously they're not the same beaches as you'd find in the Caribbean, but the colors, the waves, and even the wind and rain in winter are magnificent and awe-inspiring. If you're looking for a place to go to reconnect with the world- or yourself- to bring more balance to your harried life, I couldn't think of a better place to go.

Driving along the coast is like entering into a postcard; the scenery is a museum of historic homes; each one charming, and seemingly plucked from another time. The best part about it is the fact that Martha's Vineyard is real; it's not cleaned-up and sterilized like so many resort towns today, and it's also thankfully lacking much of the snobbery and pretentiousness of places like the Hamptons.

Martha's Vineyard offers myriad activities and amusements (much more than simply driving to that bridge and reenacting that fateful car ride so many years ago). Beach combing, antiquing, and cycling around the island are requisite starting points, but there are a slew of other options available for visitors of every taste. Alley's General Store should be on everyone's list- it's been around for 150 years!

Foodies will find many shops and restaurants offering gourmet goods, both to enjoy right away as well as to bring home to stretch the memories. Nature enthusiasts will love the 100+ miles of beach, bike and walking paths, nature preserves, bird and other animal watching, and host of outdoor activities, including boating, clamming, and windsurfing. Galleries abound, including a few that top the 'best of' lists of many big magazines, yet still offer beautiful works by locals- as well as famed masters alike. Of course there are also a handful of small boutiques offering original clothing, trinkets, and other goods that you won't find anywhere else. Speaking of...

PIK-NIK

I was introduced to PIK-NIK, a seasonal 'I want everything in it' boutique, and have officially dubbed it the best shop for EDGE readers on the island. The owner is a well-known stylist and brilliant buyer, who also happens to be quite easy on the eyes. He's assembled a well-edited collection of this season's must-haves, alongside vintage pieces and various other items you won't be able to live without. I found everything from denim that's only available in one other location, to fabulous retro-inspired vases, to a yak-yarn cap that's apparently everything in LA, to the best pickles I've had in my life. (Yes, pickles!)

This store should definitely top your list of stops- just be sure to call ahead to make sure that they're open. PIK-NIK :: 99 Dukes County Ave, Oak Bluffs :: 508-693-1366

Because the island offers such a wide array of activities, I suggest you check out the Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce site, and then pick up one or two visitors maps- found everywhere- upon arrival.

Dining

Unfortunately I only got to personally experience one restaurant while on-island, but I made sure to get suggestions and recommendations from everyone I met. Two of the restaurants that came up again and again were L'Etoile and D?tante. While I was warned that both are a bit on the pricey side, I was assured that they were well worth it.

Fortunately I did get to experience the third restaurant on everyone's must-visit list, Alchemy. And while the prices at this bistro-bar were reasonable, the food was incredible.

As a vegetarian, I often use my "restricted diet" as a way of testing chefs at restaurants I've never visited; Alchemy passed with flying colors- and some extra credit to boot. The platter of vegetables, gratin, pasta, and gnocchi I received was beyond anything I could have expected, and went down in my personal food history book as one of my favorite meals outside of France. I'm a huge fan of butternut squash ravioli, and this one wins hands-down (they were a tad sweeter than I've had before, with a dash of extra spice- heaven!). The gnocchi was also the best I've had outside of Europe, the cauliflower gratin was like an other-worldly experience in my mouth, and every single vegetable (and there were five) was cooked, glazed, and seasoned to perfection. In fact I was so excited about this meal that the woman next to me ordered it immediately without even looking at her menu.

The d?cor and ambiance at Alchemy only add to the experience. The building itself is very interesting, and features a long bar, about a dozen tables downstairs, and a big hole in the ceiling where you can see up into the dining room on the second floor. Add to that a good wine list and great service and you've got a definite winner.

Two other places that I heard were good- and which I've added to my list to check out on my next trip- are the restaurant at the Beach Plum Inn, and a new place that opened this year, Balance.

When you go

Martha's Vineyard has year-round residents and visitors, although many establishments are seasonal. Late spring through early fall is considered high season, and the most popular for visitors. That said, early spring and late fall are beautiful- and much less crowded than the summer. Depending on what you're looking for, the island is beautiful, peaceful, and quiet in the winter.

To get to Martha's Vineyard you'll need to take one of many ferries that serve the island, depending on where you're coming from. The best way to figure this out is to go to the Chamber of Commerce website, where you'll find schedules and links to sites where you can book your travel and buy tickets online. You can also reach the island by plane, either through Cape Air, charter flight, or private plane. For more info on air accessibility, see the Chamber of Commerce site as well.

There's much to see and do, but many activities are seasonal; pick up one or two maps of the island (each of the six towns on Martha's Vineyard has their own), and inquire with your hotel for information on current events and goings-on.

There are dozens of places to stay on the island, but only one that I would wholeheartedly recommend, and that's the Hob Knob.

And apparently I'm not the only one who fell in love with this place; it's an eleven-year recipient of awards for Best B&B from Cape Cod Life magazine and Martha's Vineyard Magazine, and it's been featured in Travel & Leisure, Elle, and Boston magazines.