EuroPride 08 :: Day Four
The largest city, and capital of the kingdom of Sweden, Stockholm is home to just over 2 million people. A sophisticated and cosmopolitan city in a country whose society is open and accepting of different cultures and lifestyles, it's no surprise that Stockholm should play host to EuroPride. The great majority of people in Sweden share a 'live-and-let-live' attitude, especially as it has to do with the LGBT community, and as a result the community has become integrated in the city as a whole; much more so than in many cities in the U.S.
There's no gay ghetto in Stockholm, because there doesn't need to be. Similarly, gay and lesbian visitors will find that although there are plenty of fabulous gay bars and clubs, there are just as many non-gay establishments that are just as welcoming- and just as much fun.
The city is nearly spotlessly clean, very green, and easy to navigate on foot or by bicycle. Stockholm is built on 14 islands, so bridges and waterways abound, making for some incredible scenery and water that you can actually swim in. (Although I wouldn't recommend it in winter...) Of course being EuroPride, there are even more options open this week, but no matter when you come or what your interest- from outdoor activities to museums, shopping, gourmet food, or dancing all night- you'll find that there's plenty to do and see in Stockholm.
Breakfast at the Berns
The Berns Hotel is a centrally located fabulous, chic, swank, and luxurious boutique hotel. It's also an especially good option for those who like to stay out late, dance, and party, as their gorgeous ballroom hosts large events, concerts, and shows. Some of the major parties during Pride took place at the Berns, including the closing party featuring Marsha Wash- but more on that in a minute.
Today we went to the Berns to check out their breakfast spread- and definitely weren't disappointed. We enjoyed a mix of traditional Scandinavian and continental foods in the incredible main dining room, which is the perfect blend of classic and modern. Built in 1863, Mr. Berns opened the hotel and restaurant at a time when there wasn't much going on in the area. In fact, most people thought he was crazy to open where he did; in fact he was a genius. It quickly became the hot spot in Stockholm, attracting stars by the dozens. Today, photos of past fans hang in the main dining room as reminders of the hotel's glamorous past, although one need simply look up or around to see how much of this same fabulousness remains.
Today the restaurant at the Berns - Berns Asian- remains among the most popular spots in the city to see and be seen. Their imaginative menu features nouveau sushi and other Asian and Asian-inspired dishes to tempt your taste buds, and tease your senses. For those on a budget, don't feel like you're completely out of luck; both the bar area and Bistro Berns feature excellent dining options and libations at a lower price, as well as a good bit of lounge and outdoor seating, giving you all the atmosphere and views on a smaller tab.
As far as modern hotels go, the Berns would be hard to beat. They've done a fabulous job of integrating a modern design hotel into the existing structure and architecture of the old building. For true glamour, book the large loft suite that sits front-and-center on the top floor; you'll get a view of the park through huge windows (including one looking out on the original clock), as well as a large living room, and two gorgeous bathrooms, including one that features a glass-walled shower with views into the living room! (Don't worry- special lighting can be activated to turn the wall from clear to opaque).
The Parade
I haven't been to a Pride parade in the states for years; I find them boring, monotonous, and lacking in creativity, with very little difference between the parades of one city and another. Luckily the parades of Europe still provide entertainment, inspiration, and most of all, fun.
The EuroPride 08 parade in Stockholm was no exception. To start with, it was immense. The organizers estimated that upwards of 50,000 people participated, with tons of people watching on the sidelines and cheering them on. Everyone was having a blast- even when it was raining- including those of us in the media who spent most of the time walking back and forth, largely "upstream," trying to take photos of the craziest, sexiest, and most interesting people. (To see these pics, check out the EDGE Photo Albums.)
The parade lasted more than three hours, snaking through the city and ending at PridePark, where the party continued the rest of the day and into the evening.
Millesgarden
After the parade, I needed a bit of quiet time, so I headed to a famous- and calm- museum and park with incredible views of the water, and the city.
Many people reading this will be familiar with the sculptures of Carl Milles, a world-renowned artist whose works can be seen on public display in cities around the world. The best place to see his work however, is at Millesgarden, a museum (with fabulous gardens) that should top everyone's list of must-dos during a trip to Stockholm.
It's not simply the sculptures that make Millesgarden special, but also the way in which they're displayed. Set into large fountains, surrounded by trees, and overlooking the water on beautiful cliffs and terraces, Milles' designs take on additional life, becoming part of the scenery and inspiring awe.
Plan to make an afternoon of your visit, allowing time to explore the works and grounds, which are beautifully landscaped and make the perfect backdrop for his work. As with many museums today, Millesgarden has a small restaurant, and in this case a very good one. If you have the time, stay for a meal at the Bistro. In winter you can sit in the Winter Garden; in spring and summer, on the terrace that overlooks the park. Either makes a fabulous (and quiet!) afternoon break.
Kungsholmen
I discovered Kungsholmen when I came to Stockholm for the first time a few months ago and I'd been dying to go back ever since. In fact, after just one visit it's become one of my favorite restaurants in Europe- which is saying a lot.
Kungsholmen has everything you could want for a fantastic and memorable meal: great food, good drinks, stylish ambiance, fab location, and best of all, no stuffiness. I'm a big fan of the recent move towards haute cuisine in a casual, relaxed environment, and Kungsholmen does it perfectly. Their eclectic and diverse menu is a mix of the best of all worlds without being crazy or hodge-podgey. The menu is also designed so that you can either nosh on small plates with cocktails, or go for broke with a multi-course meal. And the food? Let's just say that I couldn't get enough, and had I been able to do it without being seen, I may have licked my plate... and the plates of those around me.
The Closing Party- and Martha Wash!
The energy and upbeat attitude of the parade definitely carried over into the evening, and the closing party at the Berns Hotel was Scan-delicious! The music was incredible, the performers were hot, and the crowd was set on having a good time. Afro-Dite, a Swedish girl group, was first on stage, and the girls rocked the house with songs from the 60s to today, including some fierce disco classics that had everyone gettin' down. Of course the star of the night (who a friend ran into on the street the next day and found to be extremely nice) was Martha Wash, who performed her classics to a crowd that couldn't get enough.
The party lasted until the wee morning hours, and although I had to head back to my hotel (the fabulous Grand, in case you forgot) to write this, I could still hear the music from three blocks away well past 3am.
So this is it- the end of EuroPride, but not quite the end of my time in Stockholm. I've got one more day in this lovely city, and I plan to make the most of it. Tomorrow we're headed out of the city to an insanely beautiful castle next to the most idyllic lake, and then to the famous- and freezing!- ABSOLUT ICEBAR STOCKHOLM at the nordic Sea hotel.
Check back tomorrow for a report on my final day in Stockholm- and the last bits of EuroPride!
Photos by Andre Landeros Michel, except for Kungsholme, which is courtesy of the restaurant.
For photos of EuroPride, go to the EDGE Photo Albums