EuroPride 08 :: Day Five
Technically the official events of EuroPride 08 are over and done with, but with so many homos still in town you'd never know it. I've got one more day in Stockholm, and I intend to make the most of it- with visits to a fabulous castle, a giant boat that didn't even survive her maiden voyage, and the world famous ABSOLUT ICEBAR. I'm also planning to stop by a few of my favorite hotels to make sure they're still hot enough to recommend to EDGE readers, and end the day at what I hear is an incredible restaurant.
Tomorrow I head back to LA for a week; then it's home to Boston for a few days (finally!), before heading to the Cape for what I hope will be a long weekend, perhaps without a computer. (I know that's probably wishful thinking, but maybe if I put it out in the universe now it'll somehow come true!)
Here's to Stockholm!
Skokloster Castle
Located on the beautiful Lake Malaren, Skokloster Castle is one of the best- and most extravagant- examples of Baroque castles in Sweden. Built between 1654 and 1676, it represents one of Sweden's greatest periods, a time when they were one of the most powerful countries in Europe. The castle was built by Carl Gustaf Wrangel, and because he died during construction it's technically not complete- and some rooms remain nearly exactly as they were in 1676.
Now a museum owned by the Swedish government, the luxurious Baroque interiors are among the best in Europe, and hold a fabulously impressive array of largely uncatalouged and rare works including paintings, furniture, textiles, books, glass- and silverware, weapons and more. For history buffs- especially fans of this decadent period of ornate fanciful d?cor- Skokloster is a true gem.
ABSOLUT ICEBAR STOCKHOLM
If you come to Stockholm, you've got to have a cocktail at the ABSOLUT ICEBAR STOCKHOLM. It's a fun, once-in-a-lifetime experience (ok, maybe a once-every-visit, but who's counting?) that guarantees a good time, great photos, and usually even a couple new friends. It's a tad on the pricey side, but well worth it, so don't let that dissuade you.
If you're staying at the nordic Light or nordic Sea, stop by the ICEBAR before heading to dinner or out for the evening; it's best to go while you've still got your head about you and can appreciate the camp factor (and not look too tipsy in the photos). The entrance is located in the lobby of the nordic Sea hotel, and once you don your thermal parka and gloves, you'll pass through an airlock-style antechamber and into the actual bar itself.
The ICEBAR- big surprise- is made entirely from ice, including the large, square shot glasses that you drink from. The bar isn't huge, they have a limited capacity, and it's a fairly popular tourist attraction, so I recommend making a reservation at least a couple days before you want to go.
The entire staff is beautiful, and if you're super lucky you'll be there when my favorite bartender's working. He's easy to spot because he's got the most incredible eyes in the world; I think one of his parents was a Husky and the other a tall, tan, Scandinavian supermodel.
nordic Light
After a cocktail at the ICEBAR I stopped by the nordic Light hotel for a cup of coffee, but mostly because I can't get enough of the incredible d?cor. A perfect example of contemporary Scandinavian design, this is the kind of hotel lobby you'd see on an episode of Nip/Tuck or in the pages of Metropolitan Home or *Wallpaper Magazine.
The rooms are just as fabulous. All of them are clean, modern and fabulous; some even have groovy mood-enhancing lighting designed to help guests get through the long, dark, Scandinavian winters. In addition to these specially lighted Mood Rooms, the hotel offers in-room light therapy sessions, which can be combined with a massage... or simply enjoyed with a cocktail! Of course they also offer all of the services you'd expect from a fabulous hotel, including 24-hour room service, high speed internet, a mini gym (complete with a sauna and personal steam rooms), and an excellent breakfast buffet in the lobby caf?.
Vasa, (but no Vikings)
I have to admit, the first time I came to Stockholm I was a bit disappointed to learn that the incredibly large and ominous ship (the Vasa) in the Vasa Museum wasn't actually a Viking ship, and therefore the museum isn't a Viking museum. Apparently the Vikings lived about 600 years before the Vasa, which, while interesting, in reality has nothing to do with anything I'm writing about, and in fact doesn't make the museum any less interesting. If anything, I found it more exciting to think that perhaps the builders of this ship may have looked back on the Vikings' designs for inspiration.
If that's the case, bad idea...
The Vasa, it turns out, is a marvel of 17th century engineering... kind of.
You see, King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden was quiet the showy king- but not the brightest bulb in the bunch. For while his royal shipbuilders designed and began to build a fabulous warship that could have been the talk of the seas, King G. really wanted to add a few things to it- namely heavy, awkward, unbalanced things, and in 1628, when she set sail on her maiden voyage, the Vasa quickly sank. Oops.
The Vasa sat at the bottom of the Stockholm Harbor for 333 years, until engineers were able to slowly raise her, and the process of restoration began. She's since been put on display in this interactive museum that explores the ship, her contents, and the men who died when she sank. The boat and its contents are obviously impressive; equally impressive however, is the story of how the ship was raised and preserved, and the work that goes into keeping it looking "like new" today. Fans of ships, history, engineering, and restoration will love this place, and it gives an excellent peak into Swedish life in the 17th century.
Brothers from a different mother
The rex hotel (pictured) offers a great mix of old and new, and boasts one of the nicest owners and staff in Stockholm. The building dates from 1866, but the only place you'd notice that is in the brickwork, staircase, and vintage photos throughout. Each of the 32 rooms in this boutique hotel is uniquely decorated, but all are modern, stylish and comfortable.
The Rex' sister hotel, the HOTEL HELLSTEN, isn't quite as old (the building dates from 1898), but shares a similar boutique style, albeit with an aura all its own.
Both are centrally located- across the street from each other- in the heart of Stockholm, near great restaurants, shopping, and more. If you're looking for a great location, this can't be beat.
Sturehof
If you truly want to see and be seen, you best head directly to the fabulous Sturehof, on Stureplan, in the center of Stockholm. The fabulously simple-yet-chic restaurant was designed by Jonas Bohlin; his famous "tutu lights" hang in one of the private rooms in the back.
Sturehof is done-up in designer white, black, and rich woods with a modern version of the pressed-tin ceiling (his features solid silver colored squares delineated by piping of silver and gold), simple seating, and glass shelves. The slightly austere design is both beautiful and simple, allowing diners to focus on food and friends while never quite forgetting the fabulousness of the d?cor. (The staff is just as striking.) Like many things in Stockholm, the menu is Swedish modern, and gloriously so; the wine is list is excellent, and surprisingly reasonable.
The owner is somewhat of a celeb restaurateur in Sweden; he's good at what he does, and people know it. If you're looking for the "it" spot, you've found it. (Translation: book early and dress the part.)
That's it for my time in Stockholm for EuroPride 08- and what a trip it's been! I've fallen in love with the city, the people, and the fabulous and diverse activities available for visitors of every interest.
Although this wraps up my official EuroPride 08 coverage, check back next week for a quick roundup, showcasing the Best of Stockholm.
For photos of EuroPride, go to the EDGE Photo Albums